Torsion Spring Replacement

Purpose

Define the safe replacement protocol for residential garage door torsion springs. This is the highest-risk single task in garage door service - a torsion spring stores thousands of foot-pounds of energy and unintended release has crushed hands, broken arms, and killed techs. This SOP is for trained technicians ONLY; if you're not trained on torsion spring work, refuse the job and refer.

Scope

Applies to:

• Residential sectional doors with above-the-door torsion springs (most common modern install)
• Single or dual-spring configurations
• Standard residential weight doors (single-car, double-car)

Excludes commercial door spring systems, EZ-Set / quick-release spring systems (manufacturer-specific procedures), and any door where the spring is broken AND the cables have separated (an emergency-only scope - different first-step protocol).

Responsibilities

• Lead technician ONLY (must have completed torsion-spring safety training)
• Apprentice / unqualified crew observe only; do not handle wound springs
• Customer stays out of the garage during winding

Procedure

1. Verify your tools. You need PROPER winding bars (½" round steel, ~18" long; matched pair). DO NOT improvise with screwdrivers, rebar, or extension bars. The winding bar engagement is what keeps the spring from unloading on you.
2. Close the door fully. Door must be on the ground for the cable drum to be unloaded.
3. Clamp the door to the track with locking pliers (Vise-Grips) just above the top roller on BOTH sides. This prevents the door from rising during spring unwinding.
4. Disconnect the opener via the emergency-release pull cord.
5. Identify the spring direction. Stand inside facing the door:

• Right wind (RW) = coils go up to the right when looking at the end of the spring
• Left wind (LW) = coils go up to the left
• Replacement spring MUST match wind direction; mismatched winds cause the door to bind catastrophically

1. Unload the existing spring (CAREFUL):

• Insert one winding bar into the winding cone (at the end of the spring nearest the center bracket)
• Loosen the cone's set screws while keeping firm tension on the bar
• Unwind in 1/4-turn increments, moving the bar from one slot to the next, then inserting the second bar in the new slot before removing the first
• Count the turns down to fully unwound (typically 25 - 35 turns on a residential door)

1. Loosen the center bracket set screws to slide the spring off the shaft.
2. Remove the spring. May need to slide it sideways past the cable drum.
3. Inspect the cables. ANY visible fraying = replace cables too. Fraying near the bottom bracket is the most common.
4. Inspect the bearings at the center bracket + end brackets. Worn bearings = replace.
5. Install the new spring. Match length + wire diameter + IRD (inside diameter); slide onto shaft + secure center bracket.
6. Wind the new spring the SAME number of turns the old one had, in the OPPOSITE direction of unwinding (counter to the door's rotation). Use winding bars same as unloading; alternate bars in 1/4-turn increments.
7. Tighten cone set screws to the spec torque (typically 30 ft-lb).
8. Remove the door clamps.
9. Lift the door by hand. It should rise easily AND stay where you stop it at half-open + fully open. Floor-stays = needs more turns. Lifts itself = needs fewer turns.
10. Adjust as needed. Add or subtract 1/4 turn at a time until the door balances at any position.
11. Reconnect the opener + run 3 cycles. Verify smooth operation.
12. Run the safety-reverse test (2x4 on the floor; door must reverse on contact).

Acceptance Criteria

• Spring wind direction matches OEM
• Door balances at any position (lift by hand, releases stays put)
• 3 full cycles with no binding
• Safety-reverse passes
• Customer signs field report; manufacturer warranty info documented

References

• DASMA / IDA Spring System Safety standard
• Manufacturer spring specifications (Wayne Dalton, CHI, Clopay, Amarr)
• Manuall internal: Annual Garage Door Service