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Gutter Integration on Reroof SOP

SOP Process Updated Jul 24, 2026 · Roofing

Purpose

Define how gutters interface with reroof work so the roof + gutter systems function together. Most roof leaks at eaves involve gutter integration; correct handling here prevents callbacks + structural water damage.

Scope

Residential reroofing where gutters exist OR will be added. Excludes gutter-only replacement (separate trade).

Responsibilities

  • Roofing lead coordinates with gutter installer (if separate trade)
  • Customer decides if gutter replacement is included in scope
  • Office schedules gutter work to align with roof work timeline

Procedure

Phase 1: Pre-job assessment (during quote)

Inspect gutters before quoting reroof:

  1. Gutters: age, material, condition, leaking joints, sagging
  2. Downspouts: connection, condition, ground discharge
  3. Fascia behind gutters: rot, peeling paint, water staining
  4. Drip edge: present? Condition? Properly integrated with gutters?
  5. Roof-to-gutter clearance: how shingles meet gutter

Scope decisions:

  • Gutters under 10 years + good shape: leave + protect during reroof
  • Gutters > 15 years OR sagging OR leaking: recommend replacement during reroof (cheaper than separately)
  • Gutters with leaf guards: discuss with customer - leaf guards are removed for reroof + reinstalled (or replaced)

Phase 2: Protection during tear-off (Day 1)

If gutters stay:

  1. Remove leaf guards (set aside; not on lawn)
  2. Cover gutters with tarps to catch tear-off debris
  3. Tear off shingles + nails
  4. Vacuum debris from gutters immediately (don't let nails sit + cause rust stains)

Phase 3: Drip edge installation

Drip edge is the interface between roof + gutter:

  1. Install drip edge at eaves OVER underlayment OR UNDER (per code + manufacturer)
  2. Drip edge horizontal flange extends 1/4 to 1/2 inch over the gutter
  3. The gutter sits BELOW the horizontal flange (water sheds onto drip edge, into gutter)
  4. Gap between drip edge + gutter: ≤ 1/4 inch (larger = wind-driven rain misses gutter)

Phase 4: Shingle install

  1. First course of shingles aligns with starter strip
  2. First course bottom edge: 1/2 to 1 inch beyond drip edge
  3. Water flows off shingle, onto drip edge, into gutter

Phase 5: Gutter replacement (if scoped)

Done after roof complete (or before, depending on contractor)

  1. Remove old gutters
  2. Inspect fascia + repair any rot before new gutters
  3. Install new aluminum gutters (5" or 6" K-style most common)
  4. Hidden hangers spaced 24-32 inches
  5. Pitch: 1/4 inch per 10 feet toward downspouts
  6. Downspouts: 1 per 30-40 ft of gutter, sized for roof area
  7. Reinstall leaf guards if specified

Phase 6: Discharge + drainage

Critical but often overlooked:

  1. Downspouts discharge AWAY from foundation (minimum 6 ft, 10+ ft preferred)
  2. Underground drainage tile OR extension to grade
  3. Ground slope: away from foundation at 6 inches per 10 ft

Poor discharge = water at foundation = basement leaks. Always verify.

Phase 7: Verify + handoff

  1. Pour water in gutter at far end + watch flow to downspout
  2. Inspect every downspout outlet (no obstruction)
  3. Check for any drips where gutter meets house
  4. Customer walkthrough: explain drip edge + gutter integration

Acceptance criteria

  • Drip edge installed full length of eaves + rakes
  • Drip edge integrates properly with gutter (water sheds into gutter)
  • Gutters secure (no sagging, hangers tight)
  • Downspouts discharge away from foundation
  • Leaf guards reinstalled if applicable
  • Customer signoff

Common pitfalls

  • Skipping drip edge: water wicks under shingles, rots fascia
  • Drip edge too short: gutter misses the water flow
  • Drip edge too long: blocks gutter capacity, holds debris
  • Gutters sloped wrong direction: standing water, mosquito breeding, weight problems
  • Downspouts at foundation: water saturates soil at house, basement leaks
  • Reusing damaged hangers: gutter sags in 2-3 years
  • Forgetting leaf guard reinstallation: customer expected; complaint

Gutter sizing

Roof area + slope drives gutter capacity needed:

Roof area Gutter Downspout
< 1,500 sq ft 5" K-style 2 × 3
1,500-3,000 sq ft 5" K-style 3 × 4
> 3,000 sq ft 6" K-style 3 × 4
> 5,000 sq ft 6" K-style 4 × 5

Steeper slopes shed water faster → larger gutter or more downspouts.

When to recommend gutter replacement during reroof

  • Gutters 15+ years old (life expectancy varies; aluminum 15-25 years)
  • Visible sagging
  • Multiple leaking joints
  • Rust on steel gutters
  • Damage from ice damming
  • Fascia rot behind gutters (must repair fascia anyway)
  • Customer wants leaf guards (often easier with new gutters)
  • Aesthetic mismatch with new roof color

Combined work saves customer ~ vs separate jobs.

Coordinating with other trades

If a separate gutter contractor handles the gutter work:

  • Reach a written agreement on scope + timing
  • Schedule gutter install AFTER roof tear-off + drip edge (before first shingles ideally; or just after)
  • Both parties responsible for drip-edge/gutter interface
  • Avoid finger-pointing later: take photos of the interface

The most common roof-gutter callback: WATER OVERFLOWING GUTTERS in heavy rain even though the gutters are "good." Cause: drip-edge protrusion is too short, so water shoots past the gutter. Fix: bend drip-edge flange downward at 30° to direct water INTO the gutter. Five-minute fix on the truck saves the homeowner from believing their new roof is "leaking."

References

  • NRCA gutter integration guidelines
  • IRC R903.4 (flashing requirements at eaves)
  • Manuall internal: Asphalt Shingle Roof Replacement SOP, Roof Flashing Types + Installation Reference

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